Honolulu, Waikiki Beach c. 1989
I fought my way to the surface, gagging and spitting seawater. Rather than riding the wave, you might say that the wave rode me - pounding me down into the ocean where the little fishies live. I fell into a pattern - I would wait for a nice juicy wave, and then paddle furiously as it lifted me into the air and then I just floated off the backside, sitting idle as the other surfers caught a nice ride in. Or, I would see the wave, paddle furiously and have it come crashing down over me.
Once in a while I would actually "catch the wave" and enjoy a brief (less than 15 seconds) moment of sheer liquid bliss. And then fall, the tether would smack the board against my head and we would start the cycle over again. I was grateful that my friend lent me his board, but I did not realize that it was a competition board made for true surfers and not a poser like me.
Lahaina, Maui 2007
The sensation made me giddy - gliding atop the water, the slightest forward movement made the board go faster, shifting my weight and using my back foot to steer the board I managed to barely avoid the seawall as onlookers ran for safety and popped out their cell phones, fingers poised to dial 9-1-1.
I was surfing! I WAS SURFING! Let's look at the backstory. First, I'll admit to being a bit clumsy. OK, uncoordinated. Well, to tell the truth I was always the last kid picked for a team in school - "I'll take Henry" "I'll take Pete" "I'll take Dave's Mom" "I'll take Dave's sister" "
It started with a guarantee - I would get up on the board on the first lesson. No way! How could I NOT sign up and take a surf lesson! Could I change the past and not have a surf lesson turn into a surf "lesion"?!? I could. I plunked down my hard earned cash and began the lesson.
We had a small group of about 10 people. Our instructor Kenny explained how it would work - with our boards still on the sand we practiced centering, getting upright and how to steer. When we went into the water and started paddling I could appreciate how much work it is paddling out to the waves. My shoulders were sore after about 20 minutes! It was hard enough work that one couple abandoned the lesson just because of that.
It took a few times, but I did get up! It might have had something to do with the training, but maybe more that the board was long enough to land an F-18 on (short board = young crazy kids, long board = old crazy men). I began to exercise a small amount of confidence, and soon Kenny said "hey Dave, you want to go ride some bigger waves?" I looked at him and snorted "sha, Eddie would go!"
He thought that my show of bravado was hilarious, and said my new name was Big Wave Dave. I revel in the glory of my accomplishment. Look at how big this wave was!
